We arrived in Valparaiso early in the morning, probably around 3:00. The Knorr sat in the harbor waiting for the pilot. It was still dark and very calm when I woke up at 5:00. I walked out to the fantail to see the lights of Valparaiso glittering all around. The moon was setting over the stern and the sky was starting to color where the sun would rise. I stood in the bow watching the sun rise for a long time. Behind me, Pete was getting the anchors ready for tomorrow.
The pilot came aboard around 7:00 and we started in to the harbor. We only had mooring space for a 24 hours; after that we would have to anchor outside of the harbor. Valparaiso really has a working port. There were giant container ships all over the place. We had a tug following us "just in case" (really it is a way for the ship's agent to get more money. The pilot was upstairs on the bridge advising the captain on where to go. Everyone gathered on the back deck. Coming into port is one of the best parts of a cruise. We pulled in next to some big container ships. Yvonne said that the Knorr looked cute compared to them. The crew craned the gangway into place and had to elevate one end because of the strong surge. They did this with a couple blocks off of the boom and the rosette tuggers. Even before the gangway was in place one of the agents threw a carton of cigarettes aboard. They were immediately passed around; some people had been out for a long time and were a little desperate. A super forklift cleared the containers out of our way so that we had a better view of the city and could get to work unloading.
The crew pretty much immediately started loading science gear for the next cruise. The next group of scientists is meeting the Knorr in the Galapagos. The engineers supervised the loading of three trucks of fuel. The stores came late in the day. The scientists waited around in the lab while we cleared customs; everyone wanted to get their passport back. Dan commented that if the Chileans could screw something or make it way too complicated they would, especially in regards to passport/immigration issues. We again got shore passes when we needed tourist cards. Sorting everything out took a little extra time, and I had to give my passport up for another day. Some bigwigs from the Chilean and US Navies, as well as some State Department workers and teachers, were coming aboard for a tour, so the crew spent a fair bit of time cleaning.
The ODF crowd cleared out around 12:00. Parissa and Yvonne had walked to town, so Parisa almost missed her ride to the airport. Yvonne and I wandered around Valparaiso a bit; nice windy streets, good hills, and good colorful houses. Just walking away from the ship I commented that I hadn't walked that far without stoppping in a really long time. We eventually ran into Bernadette. We three had a couple beers and some ice cream at a cafe. We walked back to the ship to meet everyone for dinner. For dinner Yvonne, Heather, Bernadette, Luis, David, and I went to Coco Loco, a revolving restaurant at the top of a tall skyscraper. Luis picked it out. We had excellent food, with Pisco Sours and two bottles of wine. The motion of the revolving restaurant was a little strange after being on a ship for so long. We stayed there later than anyone else in the restaurant. There was a group of nuns next to our table.
I slept on the ship that night. The Knoor left to anchor at 5:30, so when I woke up I was surrounded by water again. Kyle and Pete caught the launch with us for some time ashore. Pete was really cleaned up. Luis and David were catching a bus to Santiago with Bernadette and me to make sure that we got to the airport. People had trouble reading the seat numbers on the bus; about five people tried to sit by me. My flight was delayed due to a mechanical problem, so I was a little late meeting Bro in Puerto Montt.
