SIO 111/Physics 111: Introduction to ocean waves and tides

Course syllabus

Course Introduction

Course Contents

1. Basic waves

2. Two waves

3. Many waves

4. Waves generated by a distant storm

5. Wave measurement and prediction

6. Shoaling waves

7. Rogue waves and ship waves

8. Hydrodynamics and linear theory

9. The shallow water equations. Tsunamis

10. Breakers, bores, and longshore currents

Homework #1 (due 1-14-09)

Homework #2 (due 1-21-09)

Homework #3 (due 1-28-09)

Homework #4 (due 2-4-09)

Homework #5 (due 2-25-09)

Homework #6 (due 3-4-09)

Homework #7 (due 3-11-08)

Appendix

Suggested Reading

The movie "Waves across the Pacific" is based upon the research reported in this 1966 paper by Snodgrass et. al.

Field trips

Useful web sites

Salmon home